28/07/2026
Mons 2026 Somerset trip: Westcombe Dairy
After a long day at Trethowan Brothers, we were up with the sun the next day to join the cows for milking at Milton farm - one of the two source farms for Westcombe Dairy, and excitingly the very spot where Edith Sage (née Cannon) was pioneering farmhouse cheddar making with the 'Cannon-make' in the late 19th century, and at about the age of 19 to boot.
We had the opportunity to speak a lot with Nick Millard, the herdsman at Milton farm, during milking while grand operatic tunes played, and then while walking the herd down to pasture. A lot of brilliant regenerative development has been achieved here in the past decade - creating 22 paddocks from much larger fields and exhibiting measured control in grazing these paddocks to allow the newly established and thriving herbal ley to survive and grow back stronger. Also the herd has been gradually adjusted, from almost entirely Friesian to almost entirely Dairy Shorthorn.
There is a rich history of production at Westcombe Dairy since 1890, all of which embodies the ethos that practically nothing is wasted here - anything not used in a product is an avenue for a new product. This approach has only been galvanised by Tom Calver, possibly from his experience as a chef, since he came on board to lead the operation in 2008.
This 'nose-to-tail' approach was evident in the make room as we arrived. As the cut curd is being pumped into the vat for a cheddar make, a separate pipe is pulling away excess whey into a smaller make-room. This serves two purposes - it reduces the pressure in the curd pipe, reducing damaging shearing effects on the curd, while also siphoning off lovely fresh whey for the beautiful Westcombe Ricotta production.
Famously, Westcombe have been using veal from their herd's well-treated bull calves to produce West-European styles of Charcuterie since 2017, led by Paul Burton. They have brilliant maturing rooms, encouraging the growth of the same cultures growing on their cheese, and replicating hot, dry and breezy conditions in this, characteristically, wet and cold region.
