05/24/2026
Last weekend I attended a talk at Wild Wine Fest about New England Wine: The Past, Present and Future with Jim Sligh. Amongst the sipping and discussion, I awkwardly held my notebook and pen and wine glass, and over the course of the 1 hour lecture, the only words I managed to write down on my wine splotched paper were “cider” and “vintage”.
I was surprised when our first tasting was actually a cider. But once we started digging into the history of wine in New England, it made perfect sense. Wine here developed alongside apples and cider largely because apples thrive in this climate, while grapes historically did not. Long cold winters, humid summers, and short growing seasons made it difficult for traditional European grape varieties to succeed, but apple trees thrived. By the time wineries began emerging, many growers already had orchards, presses, and generations of fermentation knowledge through cider making. There’s so much overlap between the two worlds: fermentation, aging, tannin balance, acidity, terroir. Suddenly all those grape and apple blends I’ve been seeing started to make more sense from a historical perspective.
In my own quest to better understand winemaking in Maine, I’ve spent a lot of time focused on hybrid grapes — cold hardy varietals that are making incredible strides here thanks to passionate winemakers like my friend Lindsey Benson at who I was lucky enough to be shoulder to shoulder with throughout the day. I realize now I had somewhat overlooked the role apples played in shaping this story. The two are deeply connected.
The other idea that has stayed with me since the talk is the concept of vintage. Of course I understood it in terms of climate, weather patterns, growing seasons, and harvest conditions. But what I hadn’t really considered so immediately was the maker — and the way their own personal history is also captured in the wine. Looking back, it seems so obvious.
I’ve been thinking about that a lot since, especially in relation to cheese. With every batch we are capturing moments of time in our lives, holding our own history in our two hands. The vintage of the maker, I will forever appreciate.