05/10/2026
This is one of the most common questions we ger at Genesee Country Village. For some reason there is great consternation over lavender pruning.
The lavender that died after pruning didn't die from cold. It died from scissors in the wrong place. 🌿
The one rule that protects every lavender plant: always cut into green, never into brown.
Lavender builds woody basal stems over time, and those woody stems don't have dormant buds. Cut below the green zone and the branch is finished — nothing regrows from bare wood. This is why lavender plants open up in the center and die back in sections — each dead branch is a cut made too deep.
Three pruning windows for US gardeners:
Spring (April–May): a light shaping cut just before bloom. Remove dried winter tips and restore the plant's mounded silhouette. This is not a major reduction — it's a wake-up cut. Stay well above the woody base.
After first bloom (June–July): the most important cut of the year. Once the first flush of flowers fades, cut stems back by roughly one-third of the plant's total volume. This often triggers a second flush of bloom in August–September. Cut into the green growth only, leaving at least 2 inches of leafy stems above the woody base.
Fall (October): a light volume reduction to reduce wind damage over winter. In zones 5–6 where hard freezes are common, keep this cut minimal — fresh cuts exposed to hard freezing can weaken the plant going into winter. In zones 7–9, you can cut more confidently in fall.
Where exactly to cut: find the point where soft gray-green growth meets the brown woody base. Measure 2–3 inches above that junction on the green stem. Cut there. Not lower.
Shape as you cut: aim for a rounded dome profile. This compact form sheds snow, reduces wind resistance, and maintains structure for years.
Lavender planted in the right spot — full sun, sharp drainage, lean soil — and pruned correctly in the green lives for decades. Cut into the wood once and that branch is done. 🌸